Rolex Condition Grades: What Unworn, Excellent and Very Good Actually Mean

There is no legal definition of "excellent condition" in the watch trade, which is why the same watch can be graded three different ways by three dealers. Here is the six-point scale we use, what each grade means physically, and how to check it yourself before you buy anything from anyone.

The grades we use

Unworn — never worn, factory stickers may still be present, no marks under magnification. Excellent — worn, but with no marks visible at arm's length; sharp case lines. Very Good — light wear visible on close inspection, case lines still defined. Good — visible wear consistent with regular use. Fair — significant wear, possibly a softened case, fully functional.

Across our 2376 watches, the majority sit at Very Good or Excellent — that is what a well-kept second-hand Rolex looks like.

"Unworn" is a claim, not an adjective

An unworn watch has no wear at all: no hairlines on the clasp, no marks on the caseback, no scuffs on the bracelet edges. It should have its box, its papers and, usually, its factory stickers.

Of the unworn watches in our stock, every one has both box and papers, because that is what unworn means. A watch described as unworn without either deserves a hard question.

What to inspect, in order

The clasp. It takes more wear than anything else. Deep scratches on the clasp with a pristine case usually means the case has been polished.

The lug edges. Sharp, defined bevels mean an unpolished case. Rounded, soft lugs mean it has been refinished, possibly repeatedly.

Between the lugs. Weak or missing engravings confirm heavy polishing.

The bracelet. Hold it horizontally by one end. Significant sag means stretch, which is a real cost.

Polishing: the invisible deduction

A polished case looks better and is worth less. Rolex cases have a specific geometry — flat brushed lug tops, polished sides, a crisp bevel between them — and every polish erodes it.

Any honest listing should say whether the case has been polished. If a seller cannot tell you, they have not looked.

What condition should cost you

The gap between Excellent and Good on the same reference is real but usually smaller than the gap between full-set and no-papers. Condition matters; completeness often matters more.

Our stock spans the full range deliberately, because a Good-condition watch at the right price is an excellent buy for someone who intends to wear it hard.

How we grade

Every watch is inspected by an independent watchmaker, opened, timed and pressure-tested before it is listed. Condition is recorded from that inspection, not from the photographs, and where we cannot verify something we say so rather than guessing.

Browse the collection

Filter the full collection by condition — 2376 watches, each graded from a physical inspection.