The Lady-Datejust is the most overlooked watch in the Rolex catalogue and, pound for pound, the best value in it. Solid 18ct gold is achievable at prices that would buy you a steel sports watch in men's sizes. We hold 345 of them, from £3,125 to £37,500.
The sizes
The modern Lady-Datejust is 28mm (reference 279xxx) and the Datejust 31 is 31mm (278xxx). Historically there was also a 26mm generation (179xxx, 69xxx and 79xxx) which many buyers still prefer for its more classical proportion.
A 26mm or 28mm Lady-Datejust is a genuinely small watch by modern standards. A 31 reads as contemporary. The 36mm Datejust is unisex and worn by plenty of women who want more presence.
The reference generations, decoded
69xxx (1984–2000) — sapphire crystal, quickset date, the classic 26mm. 79xxx (1999–2005) — solid-link bracelets and improved construction. 179xxx (2005–2015) — the calibre 2235 and modern finishing. 279xxx (2015–) — 28mm, calibre 2236 with the Syloxi silicon hairspring.
That Syloxi hairspring is worth knowing about: it is antimagnetic, temperature-stable and, in the smaller calibres, a real accuracy improvement.
Metals and why gold is affordable here
A 26mm solid-gold Lady-Datejust contains far less gold than a 36mm one, and demand for small watches has been soft for two decades. The result is that solid 18ct yellow gold on a President bracelet is attainable at prices that surprise people.
Two-tone Rolesor is the volume seller and the safest resale bet. All-steel with a white-gold fluted bezel is the most understated.
Dials: this is where the fun is
No Rolex model has carried more dial variety. Mother-of-pearl in white, pink, black and blue; diamond hour markers; Roman and baton indices; the full range of lacquered colours. We hold 88 mother-of-pearl dials and 117 pink across the catalogue.
Every mother-of-pearl dial is a unique piece of shell. Insist on photographs of the actual watch.
Diamonds: factory or aftermarket
Rolex sets diamonds at the factory, documented on the warranty card and reflected in the reference. Aftermarket setting — where a third party drills a factory dial or bezel and sets stones — reduces value substantially and can compromise water resistance.
Signs of aftermarket work: uneven stone spacing, visible glue, a bezel whose fluting has been ground flat, and a reference number that does not include the diamond suffix.
What to check before you buy
Bracelet stretch is the most common issue on older Lady-Datejusts, particularly on gold Presidents, because gold links wear faster. Hold the watch horizontally by one end and see how much it sags.
Also check the crown threads. Small crowns on small watches get cross-threaded, and a worn crown tube is a water-resistance failure waiting to happen.
Browse the collection
Browse the pre-owned Lady-Datejust collection — 345 watches from £3,125, or see the full womens Rolex selection.
Frequently Asked Questions
It is smaller than current fashion, which is exactly why it is good value. Many buyers prefer it.
One of the best. Real gold, real Rolex movement, real Oyster case, at the lowest entry price in the range.
Factory-set ones do. Aftermarket stones cost you money twice.
