The Submariner has been in continuous production since 1953 and has changed remarkably little. That continuity is exactly what makes the references confusing: the differences between generations are real but small, and they move prices a great deal. Here is the full sequence.
1953–1959: the beginning
The 6204 and 6205 established the format in 1953: a rotating bezel, 100m water resistance and a black dial. The 6538 — the "Big Crown", worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No — took it to 200m and is now one of the most valuable Rolexes in existence.
These are museum pieces. Buy with expert help or not at all.
1959–1979: the 5512 and 5513
The 5512 introduced crown guards and chronometer certification; the 5513 was the non-chronometer version and ran for a remarkable twenty-seven years. Both are 40mm, acrylic-crystal, no-date watches with gilt or matte dials depending on period.
The 5513 is the entry point into serious vintage Submariners and the reference where dial and insert originality matter most.
1966–1980: the date arrives
The 1680 was the first Submariner Date, and its earliest examples with red "Submariner" text — the "Red Sub" — are heavily collected.
The 16800 (1979) brought the sapphire crystal, 300m water resistance and a unidirectional bezel with a hard-anodised insert. It is the transitional reference between vintage and modern.
1988–2010: the 16610 era
The 16610 ran for twenty-one years and is the most numerous Submariner ever made. Calibre 3135, sapphire, aluminium bezel, 40mm, solid-link bracelet from the late 1990s.
It is the best-value real Submariner you can buy, and the last one with a bezel that fades. The green-bezel 16610LV "Kermit" of 2003, made for the model's fiftieth anniversary, has become a serious collector's watch.
The 14060 and 14060M covered the No-Date across the same period.
2010–2020: ceramic and the maxi case
The 116610LN brought a Cerachrom bezel, a broader "maxi" case with heavier lugs and crown guards, and the Glidelock clasp. It is a noticeably chunkier watch than the 16610 and the change divided opinion.
The 116610LV "Hulk", with a green bezel and green dial, is the most-wanted of them. The 114060 was the No-Date of this generation.
2020–: the 41mm generation
The 126610LN went to 41mm but slimmed the lugs back down, so it wears closer to a 16610 than to a 116610 despite the larger number. Calibre 3235, 70-hour reserve, and a bracelet with better articulation.
The 126610LV "Starbucks" pairs a green bezel with a black dial. The 124060 No-Date was discontinued in 2024.
Our 187 Submariners span these generations from £6,595 to £49,150.
Browse the collection
Browse every generation in the Submariner collection — 187 watches from £6,595.
Frequently Asked Questions
The 16610. Twenty-one years of production means supply, and it is a superb watch.
Barely. Rolex slimmed the lugs, so it wears closer to the 16610 than to the 116610.
Green Submariners: 16610LV, 116610LV and 126610LV respectively.
